Landscape is, in mamy ways, the window to a country's soul. it dictates how a culture develops and functions. In the case of Turkey it changes history into reality.

Lawrence Durrel coined the phrase 'A sense of place' and it is a statement that is most applicable to Turkey and its horses.

The country of Turkey brings to mind pristine sandy beaches and the clear waters of the Mediterranean; or perhaps the soaring dome and minarets of Haigha Sophia and the stark marble remains of ancient cultures (yay rubble!) Wat it might not evoke is a deep rural and nomadic tradition. This is why finding the sense of a place is so important. I have spent years with my nose buried in books reading about battles, memorizing names and dates. Many a text (both ancient and modern) tells me that Turkey was a famous horse breeding region and that numerous horse cultures emerged from here. Until now I have not been able to understand why. You see, to really understand the history you need to get away from the books and truly experience that place for what it is (and I am very fortunate to be able to do so).

For example, while driving through Cappadocia I passed trucks laden with some of the most beautiful, green alfalfa I had ever seen. If you go back to the history books you discover that ancient Persia was renowned for its horses which ate 'Median grass' - alfalfa. The higher protein content allowed for more robust horses to develop. Thus an adcademic fact becomes reality when I witness it first hand.

Turkey is a very mountianous country that seems like no place for a horse.

But as soon as the land flattens out into a plateau or valley, both horses and donkeys can be seen pulling carts and working in the fields alongside tractors.

To really discover a place you have to find its people too. Mention the world 'horse' to anyone in Turkey their face lights up. I bought an old handmade bridle from a retired Turkish Airforce pilot in Safranbolu who grew up driving horses on the farm and now makes saddles and harnesses.

In Goreme one man told me that his young son was learning to ride horses becuase it is the Turkish tradition. When I mention that I am here studying horses everyone has a story to tell, even if it is just to make sure that I know Cappadocia means 'Land of the Beautiful Horses.' If you want further proof of the Turkish connection to horses look above almost any door and you will see a horseshoe nailed there.

Cheers,

Carolyn